New Family Build - Amp Cab

RVA

RVA

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Those of you who know me probably saw this coming. With a new table saw, I was not going to stick to cutting pieces for an old amp for long. My father has wanted to teach me some tips, tricks and safety when working with wood and power saws. Since purposeful practice is always a great approach, an amp cab it is!!!

I was thinking about a closed back or convertible 2x12. After that, I could use advice.

As for speakers, I play classic rock and blues for the most part. I would appreciate all suggestions. There has been much talk about "greenbacks" and the clone alternatives, which seems to make everyone happy, but I an open to anything I do not have to search the vintage market for.

And then...I need help with everything else. Wood type, construction techniques, enclosure types (I have seen some cabs with an open strip at the bottom, but i do not know what this is called), and everything else.

I will document the journey here for all interested. So, here we go again!!
 
Lol well i do know the Peavey cabinet i picked up at a garage sale has kind of a chambering or sound baffel board in it.not sure how to explain it.its loud to.My Blackheart BH112 speaker cabinet has a Creamback in it.Per Mr Frank Blade i ordered a Celestion Greenback but they screwed up and sent me a creamback.
 
I got a Blackheart BH110 speaker cabinet but the 10 inch speaker sounds tinny compared to the 12 in speakers
 
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Now you might consider buying 16 ohm speakers because depending on how you wire the 2 you can end up with 8 ohms on the speaker cabinet.the Peavey cab is 4 ohm which is ok but your a bit limited on Amp heads.has to be 4 ohm output and no more.now with the 16 ohm speakers it will allow for a little more breathing room on the amps ohm output for the speaker cabinet.Alotnof amps now days have multiple speaker Ohm outputs.like my Blackheart amp heads have a 4,8,16 ohm speaker outputs. so if you got 2 ,16 ohm speakers wired a certain way ur gonna get a 8 ohm cabinet,ya see where im going with this.
 
Yes, table saw safety is worth taking some time to learn.
Let us know how big the bruise is when a rip kicks back and hits you in the stomach or chest.
Sooner or later.....
 
There are a lot of blueprints or diagrams on the Web that you can download for just about any kind of speaker cab configuration. Even the fancy Thiel type cabs. Your Dad probably has some experience in easily reading the diagrams.

If you want the cab to be light but very resonant, go with some quality pine, but the baffle board should be void-free Baltic birch plywood, 5/8 to 3/4 inch thick.

An all Baltic birch cab works well, too. It'll be a little heavier, though.

Dovetail joints is always cool, but not necessary.

What I think is very cool, and it does make for a more pleasant listening experience, is building the speaker baffle with its own "beam blocker". Weber is famous for selling these as an aftermarket idea:
12" Beam Blocker (4" Dome)
 
I have an idea.
Instead of a 2 X 12 cabinet try a cabinet with one 10" and one 12" in it.
That will give you all the bigness of the 12 and all the punch of the 10.
It will also be nice and thick because the cones will have different masses
and accelerate at different speeds. I have a Fender Vibroverb RI (40 watt
2 X 10) that I turned into a 1 X 12 + 1 X 10 and it sounds very good.
If you don't like it all you have to do is enlarge the 10" hole and it
will become a 2 X 12.
 
Tony M. said:
I have an idea.
Instead of a 2 X 12 cabinet try a cabinet with one 10" and one 12" in it.
That will give you all the bigness of the 12 and all the punch of the 10.
It will also be nice and thick because the cones will have different masses
and accelerate at different speeds. I have a Fender Vibroverb RI (40 watt
2 X 10) that I turned into a 1 X 12 + 1 X 10 and it sounds very good.
If you don't like it all you have to do is enlarge the 10" hole and it
will become a 2 X 12.
Click to expand...
That is interesting, Tony. Other than the hole differences, does it present any other challenges?
 
Should be right i do believe.That big Peavey cabinet i got has a angled baffle in it.id take a picture but its all black and you cant hardly see it anyway.
 
Nope.
Just make sure the cabinet has enough front board area to fit
two 12"s if you decide to go the 2 X 12 configuration later.
 
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RVA said:
2 x 16" ohms in series = 8 ohm, right?
Click to expand...
That would be 32 ohms. Want you want is wiring in parallel.

Tony M. said:
I have an idea.
Instead of a 2 X 12 cabinet try a cabinet with one 10" and one 12" in it.
That will give you all the bigness of the 12 and all the punch of the 10.
It will also be nice and thick because the cones will have different masses
and accelerate at different speeds. I have a Fender Vibroverb RI (40 watt
2 X 10) that I turned into a 1 X 12 + 1 X 10 and it sounds very good.
If you don't like it all you have to do is enlarge the 10" hole and it
will become a 2 X 12.
Click to expand...

That's a damn good idea. You can even cut for two 12" speakers, and get an adaptor that allows you to use a 10" speaker:
Baffle Converter for 12'' to 10'' (black)

1006512.jpg
 
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Doze Green Berrys will give up the righteous Limey tonz.... at leashed for what I see on the internuts.
;)

Reading this, I am intoxicated with the urge to build the cab for my 18w TMB and giving me wood.
Alas, I have wood, but no wood of the tree plankety type.

I'll sober up before I switch on that table saw though.

Looks like WGS revamped the website entirely.
I was considering WGS but finally went with the Weber Signatures and an Eminence Legend GB128
So far anyway.......

I keep meaning to post my NAD for the 18w; I know no pics, yada yada....
 
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