I Want to Build a Slave Amp

A slave amp you say?? Here Ya go, the schematic of a remnant from the Aussie "wattage wars" of the 70's.15659102153238453372162515703620.png We've all seen the pic of a very young Angus playing though an Aussie made 200 watt Holden Wasp stack1605826393734588186055114835994.png
The above schematic is for the 200 watt slave amp you coupled to the head for a tad more stage presence & grunt.
Note the cathode follower's coupling the PI to the KT88's, thus driving them from a low impedance source. These were considered mid sized amps during our wattage wars. Cheers
 
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67plexi said:
If I was to build a slave amp it would be the Dumble Odyssey Eric Johnson used one for years.

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Cadorman said:
Now we are getting somewhere!
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Cadorman said:
View attachment 70612
Boo says screw you Adrian. I'm going home. Wait. I'm already home. I'm going to eat your dogs!
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ivan H said:
A slave amp you say?? Here Ya go, the schematic of a remnant from the Aussie "wattage wars" of the 70's.View attachment 70625 We've all seen the pic of a very young Angus playing though an Aussie made 200 watt Holden Wasp stackView attachment 70627
The above schematic is for the 200 watt slave amp you coupled to the head for a tad more stage presence & grunt.
Note the cathode follower's coupling the PI to the KT88's, thus driving them from a low impedance source. These were considered mid sized amps during our wattage wars. Cheers
Click to expand...

All the right players are on the case.
 
Amp Mad Scientist said:
can I just eliminate everything on the board before the dual can cap and change that to a single 50?

No
You still need the dual can cap.
1/2 is for screen grid filtering.
1/2 is for PI filtering.
You still need a PI tube in a slave amp.

Also eliminating v1, v2, all tone controls, gain and input jacks.

Yes

Having a half power switch would be cool.

OK you can switch it triode /pentode using a DPDT ON-ON switch. But use a Carlon switch which is heavy duty and rated high as possible...
They do make a 600V rated toggle switch. Which is what I would prefer.
(Toggle switches are really only made for AC, but we use it for small current DC)
But only switch it when the standby is set warm up (not operate).
This will save the switch contacts from toasting when changing from Hi to low power..

I would eliminate the bias test points as well as I have one of the VHT meters and that has dual test points if I want to check it against my DVOM.

OK fine
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