Cab switchers

RVA

RVA

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So does anyone have an a/b type box for 1 head and multiple cabs (to be distinguished from switching heads on one cab)? Did you buy or build?

I understand the major issues are that you should have a switcher with hardware capable of handling an amp load - speaker quality cable instead of instrument, etc. Also, some are concerned with the loss of a speaker load for the moment between switching, which could be solved by placing the head in standby first.

Switchers for stereos with alligator clip attachments like this are FAR cheaper than the only one I could find for guitar, the Radial Cabbone. I can't even find it for sale except from Germany on Reverb, but it goes for approx $ 350.

I guess the stereo switcher could be adapted for use with a 1/4 jack. Anyone got any other solutions?
 
No, use 16 gauge lamp cord.
It will carry 1625 watts RMS
and costs 7 cents a foot.

You can probably get make before break switches at Greyhill
if you're worried about the interruption during the switch.
I don't see it as an issue though unless you plan to switch
cabinets while you have a chord ringing.
 
How many cabinets do you need to switch?

If you are only switching to two cabinets, you can do it with something like this:

This is one of the first switches I ever made for my rig. It uses a simple 2P2T (DPDT) toggle switch, available at most hardware stores. It only cost a few dollars and is rated for 3 amps at 250 volts - well above what your amp head will put out. That equates to 750 watts.

Get a project box, some Switchcraft connectors, and some 16 gauge wire to wire it up. If the connectors will accommodate it, you could go up to 14 gauge wire.

upload_2019-5-11_9-50-51.jpeg
 
Last edited:
smitty_p said:
How many cabinets do you need to switch?

If you are only switching to two cabinets, you can do it with something like this:

This is one of the first switches I ever made for my rig. It uses a simple 2P2T (DPDT) toggle switch, available at most hardware stores. It only cost a few dollars and is rated for 3 amps at 250 volts - well above what your amp head will put out. That equates to 750 watts.

Get a project box, some Switchcraft connectors, and some 16 gauge wire to wire it up. If the connectors will accommodate it, you could go up to 14 gauge wire.

View attachment 24993
Click to expand...
Perfect! And your thoughts on the need for a "make before break" switch?
 
I got a nice, vintage A-B-Y vox from RobV. It's really quiet and couples up my two amps nicely. I dont always run two amps live, but the box is used frequently in my home studio.

Thanks, @RobV!!!
 
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Robert Herndon said:
I got a nice, vintage A-B-Y vox from RobV. It's really quiet and couples up my two amps nicely. I dont always run two amps live, but the box is used frequently in my home studio.

Thanks, @RobV!!!
Click to expand...
That sends instrument out to 2 or more amps. This is sending out from the head, which requires caution for the load, mostly by way of heavier wire
 
Actually Mesa probably makes the best switcher pedal out, but like all Mesa products, it has a healthy price. I does cover all possibilities. I came close to buying one last year before down sizing my amp collection.
 
smitty_p said:
How many cabinets do you need to switch?

If you are only switching to two cabinets, you can do it with something like this:

This is one of the first switches I ever made for my rig. It uses a simple 2P2T (DPDT) toggle switch, available at most hardware stores. It only cost a few dollars and is rated for 3 amps at 250 volts - well above what your amp head will put out. That equates to 750 watts.

Get a project box, some Switchcraft connectors, and some 16 gauge wire to wire it up. If the connectors will accommodate it, you could go up to 14 gauge wire.

View attachment 24993
Click to expand...
I agree, should be simple enough to build.
 
Build it yourself.
What are you waiting for?
You can bring it in for under $20.00.
or...
You can go spend tens of thousands of pennies for
something because it has a brand name sticker on it.
 
RVA said:
Perfect! And your thoughts on the need for a "make before break" switch?
Click to expand...

I can’t say for sure with a tube amp. The other amps techs on the forum may have some input on that.

A simple way to do that, though, would be to use two simple switches. Wire the input connector to both switches, like a Y-split. Then wire each switch to an output connector.

When you switch, switch one cabinet on before switching the other off. Of course, you don’t want to leave it connected to both cabinets simultaneously for long, especially while playing, because the total impedance seen by the head would be lower than its rating. But, a quick second or two while switching over shouldn’t be a problem.

Of course, this is only a consideration if you want to do a “make before break” system.
 
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